A Sensescape of Belonging: Liverpool and Tastes, Aromas, Colours, Sounds and Textures of Migrant Enculturation through Food (c. 1945-1980)
Author(s):
Geert Thyssen (presenting / submitting)
Conference:
ECER 2017
Format:
Paper

Session Information

Joint Paper Session NW 17 and NW 29

Time:
2017-08-24
13:30-15:00
Room:
K1.04 Auditorium 3
Chair:
Frank Simon

Contribution

Liverpool, known to have hosted masses of immigrants since the 1840s – firstly Irish immigrants but later also German, Greek, Italian, Nordic, and Polish ones (Panayi 1996; Burrell & Panayi, 2006; Belchem, 2007; D’Annunzio, 2008; Chatziioannou, 2016) – in particular from roughly the 1890s to the 1970s witnessed the most diverse “colourful” and “tasteful” forms of enculturation through food. Thus, by the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the then major European port and still rapidly developing city saw a slowly blooming Italian community specialise in the business of producing and selling ice cream. Curiously, however, Italians in Liverpool soon also acquired a “taste” (cf. Bourdieu, 1994; von Hoffmann, 2016) for fried cod and opened some of the city’s most renowned chip shops (D’Annunzio, 2008). This is just one example of how migrants in Liverpool, from the very young to the young at heart, may have ‘acquired a distinctive hybrid hyphenated identity’ (Belchem, 2007, p. i). Importantly, this occurred through food and education around nutrition and diet, which affected not only generations of Italian Liverpudlians but the people of Liverpool in general. Indeed, it may be argued that Italian and other communities, which gradually settled in distinct quarters of the city, found an “appetite for change” in both themselves and other members of Liverpool’s population. The question of how precisely the “edible odours” (cf. Classen, Howes & Synnott, 1994) and “textured flavours” of foodstuffs, as well as the “colourful sounds” of food preparation, production and consumption, through processes of non-/formal education, have invited a “reform of the self” in contexts like these, however, has so far hardly been addressed. This paper aims to fill this gap between research on food and the senses (Sutton, 2010), food/diet and education (e.g., Scholliers, 2013), and education and the senses (Thyssen & Grosvenor, forthcoming).

Method

The methodological approach of the paper will be one anchored in “gustemology” (Sutton, 2010) as a concern with interlacing cultural understandings and inter- or multisensory experiences around food/diet. Inevitably, the question of “identity” (a concept productively complicated as a concept across disciplinary boundaries) will thereby come into view, as will that of how identities, foods/diets and the senses have come to be entangled in socially and culturally specific ways (e.g., van Beek, 1992). As Seremetakis (1994) has shown, any approach to these issues – including the gustemological approach adopted here – will have to be able to account for the spaces and materialities involved in such memory-making shaped by inter-sensory education. The concept of “synaesthesia” (or “union of the senses”, Sutton, 2006, p. 217-218) in this context will serve as a lens through which to explore how sensory experiences at the heart of education of the self around food/diet did not come about through some passive recording process but rather was actively mitigated, enacted and embodied (cf. Leysne, 2006; Sutton, 2010 and Leysne, 2009 cited therein). Concretely, the qualitative research, which is yet to be conducted, will include extensive archival research (among archival collections to be explored in the search for primary sources are those of the Liverpool Central Library, the Liverpool Maritime Museum and Liverpool World Museum). Sources that will receive particular attention are photographs. In line with culture-historical and anthropological work by scholars like Elizabeth Edwards and Tim Ingold these will be privileged in this study in view of their active role as “materials” (Ingold, 2007) within entangled processes of memory-, place- (Edwards, 2009) and sense-making (Ingold, 2011). Further refection on these and other sources in relation to food, the senses, and musea, archives, libraries and similar actors in the meaning-making around collections (cf. Thyssen & Priem, 2016) will be informed by recent work in food and museums studies (Levent & Mihalache, 2017). Apart from such work, a broad range of secondary sources will be excerpted, including local histories and folklore studies.

Expected Outcomes

It is hoped and expected that the study will contribute to a richer “sense” of both past and contemporary issues in the spheres of nutrition, health and education in the UK in particular and in Europe as a whole, with a view to safeguarding the wellbeing of future generations.

References

D’Annunzio, D.M. (2008). Liverpool’s Italian Families. Formby, Merseyside: AJH Publishing. - van Beek, W.E.A. (1992). “The Dirty Smith: Smell as a Social Frontier among the Kapsiki/Higi of North Cameroon and North-Eastern Nigeria.” Africa: Journal of the International African Institute, 62, 1, pp. 38-58. - Belchem, J. (2007). Irish, Catholic and Scouse: The History of the Liverpool-Irish, 1800-1939. Liverpool: Liverpool University Press. - Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste trans. R. Nice. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. - Burrell, K., & Panayi, P. (Eds.)(2006). Histories and Memories: Migrants and their History in Britain. London: I.B. Tauris. - Chatziioannou, M.C. (2016). “Greek Merchants in Victorian England” In: Tziovas, D. (Ed.). Greek Diaspora and Migration Since 1700: Society, Politics and Culture. London/New York: Routledge, pp. 45-60. - Classen, C., Howes, D. & Synnot A. (Eds.)(1994). Aroma: The Cultural History of Smell. London/New York: Routledge. - Edwards, E. (2009). “Photography and the Material Performances of the Past.” History and Theory, 48, 4, pp. 130-150. - von Hoffmann, V. (2016). From Gluttony to Enlightenment: The World of Taste in Early Modern Europe. Chicago: University of Illinois Press. - Ingold, T. (2007). Lines: A Brief History. London/New York: Routledge. - Ingold, T. (2011). “Worlds of Sense and Sensing the World: A Response to Sarah Pink and David Howes.” Social Anthropology, 19, 3, pp. 313-317. - Leysne W.L.H. (2009). ”Journeys through ‘Ingestible Topography’: Socializing the ‘Situated Eater’ in France.” European Studies: A Journal of European Culture, History and Politics, 22, 1, pp. 129-158. - Levent, N. & Mihalache, I.D. (Eds.)(2017). Food and Museums. London: Bloomsbury. - Leysne W.L.H. (2009). “Learning cooking: notes on the cultural parameters of child socialization and cooking in France Paper presented at 108th Annual Meeting of the American Anthropology Association, Philadelphia. - Panayi, P. (1996). Germans in Britain since 1500. London/Rio Grande: The Hambledon Press. - Scholliers, P. (2013). “Food Recommendations in Domestic Education, Belgium 1890-1940.” Paedagogica Historica, 49, 5, pp. 645-663. - Sutton, D.E. (2010). “Food and the Senses.” Annual Review of Anthropology, 39, 1, pp. 209-223. - Rosenkranz, A.E. (1921). Geschichte der deutschen evangelischen Kirche zu Liverpool. Stuttgart: Ausland und Heimat Verlags-Aktengesellschaft. - Seremetakis, C.N. (Ed.)(1994.) The Senses Still: Perception and Memory as Material Culture in Modernity. Boulder, CO: Westview. - Thyssen, G. & Priem, K. (Eds.)( 2016). Modes and Meaning: Displays of Evidence in Education. London: Routledge. 
 - Thyssen, G. & Grosvenor, I. (forthcoming). “Learning to Make Sense: Interdisciplinary Perspectives on Sensory Education and Embodied Enculturation.” Special Issue proposal accepted by The Senses and Society, Taylor & Francis.

Author Information

Geert Thyssen (presenting / submitting)
Liverpool John Moores University
Research Unit LCMI (soon: Education and Culture)
Liverpool

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